Accra Kotoka Airport

I was in transit through Accra twice recently flying between Johannesburg and London Gatwick on Ghana International. The airport is quite basic but functional and the staff are all very friendly if not particularly efficient. On the outbound flight we didn't even enter the terminal building due to a very tight connection but 3 hours on the return was more than enough to explore the very limited options. Any transit longer than 4-5 hours would be unbearable if only because of the horribly accented announcements every 10 minutes trying to sell you a raffle ticket.

The airport overall has improved from my last visit in 2001 and continues to go thru major renovations to bring it up to modern standards. The departure process has improved and the departure lounge could use updating. The air-conditioning system has significantly improved and is cooler and more consistent. The arrival process has also improved and this time around I was not too harassed by the bribers; I didn't see much of that on arrival however Ghanaians living abroad are still subjected to minor harassments and covert bribery attempts on both arrival and departures by staffers checking baggage and performing unnecessary baggage checks in attempts to part with travelers belongings. This needs to stop! I hope the renovations are completed by the 2008 African Cup to accommodate the many travelers who will pass through the airport.

I wasn’t sure what to expect on reaching Accra despite having read previous comments. It turned out to be a slightly surreal experience. There are no airbridges. Passengers were bussed the short distance from the aircraft to the arrivals wing. A long poorly lit corridor led to the somewhat shabby immigration hall. Not perhaps the best first impression for arriving passengers. Clearing immigration and customs was a slow process however the officials seemed to go out of their way to give first time visitors a beaming “Welcome to Ghana”. Baggage reclaim proved to be a bit of a scrum. The public area of the arrivals level was much brighter and more modern in its décor but it felt somewhat empty and unfinished. The most intimidating aspect was being approached and asked for a tip to provide security by someone clearly eyeing up my luggage. Fortunately the driver meeting me arrived at that moment and whisked me off safely. Departing Accra provided a somewhat different experience. The outside of the Departures level was positively packed the reason quickly became apparent as only passengers were allowed inside the building. The appearance of the check in area was quite modern although it was not particularly well signposted and had a somewhat stark feel to it. Having joined a very long line at the KLM check in desks I was quickly directed to leave the queue to clear customs a requirement which departing passengers should undertake before checking in and which was not clearly indicated. Check-in was speedy thanks to a KLM official directing frequent flier card holders to the Business Class desks but passport control and security checks were slow. The large departure lounge has recently been refurbished it contains an attractive duty free shopping area and refreshment and seating areas. On a less positive note the seats were metal and lacking any form of cushioning were uncomfortable. Public address announcements were almost inaudible. Like the refurbished part of the arrivals level there were vast areas of unoccupied space perhaps awaiting future retail outlets or other passenger facilities. There are two departure gates one at either end of the lounge. With two flights boarding simultaneously through Gate 2 this is where things broke down. The corridor from the lounge to the departure gate was shabby and the toilets were in a disgusting condition. With 500 or so passengers crowded into the boarding lounge and no apparent PA system airline staff were pushing up and down shouting at the top of their voices trying to separate passengers into groups for boarding. Two busses were in use transferring passengers from the gate to the two aircraft. Although the process only took about an hour it was a chaotic hot and very uncomfortable experience. Sadly these last few yards took away the otherwise favourable impression of the Departures level of Kotoka International Airport. I hope that the refurbishment which is underway continues and quickly addresses the shortcomings particularly in the arrivals area.

Accra airport has improved a lot from the old days but still has a long way before it catches up with even its colleagues in Lagos nearby. No jetways poor airconditioning and dysfunctional signage are only three of the problems it faces. The only saving grace is the friendliness of the hardworking staff. My flights on both Ghana International and Aerocontractors left in the middle of peak hours but the airline staff did a wonderful job shepherding us through snaking immigration and security lines. There is construction going on everywhere so it can only bode well for a more improved terminal in due course.

Accra airport has improved tremendously since the start of new national carrier Ghana International Airlines. There is a special check-in area for the new airline and everything moves quickly and with efficient staff (mix of local Ghanaians and Americans). Immigration checks are still very long and the airconditioning does not work so it is very unpleasant. Duty Free shopping is good and prices are same as London mostly. Boarding area is still under construction so passengers are taken in buses to the planes. Arrivals however is very quick and efficient. My baggage from GIA flight had arrived before I reached the terminal building which is faster than I have seen in any other airport. Overall great potential for the airport if this can be maintained.

Having been there three times during the past 18 months many things have changed for the better. Back in 2004 I was impressed by how quick my baggage turned up and the warm welcome by the immigration officers on my first visit to Ghana. Not so impressed by dirty toilets though taxi drivers and baggage carriers offering their service "proactively" after arrival immigration officers worrying me seriously on my first departure from ACC. Summer 2005 clean toilets working air condition at the departure gates friendly staff. Duty-free shopping facilities were ridiculously overpriced for some items though. Autumn 2005 quick baggage delivery after arrival nobody asking for "food money" in the airport short cues and loads of immigration officers available on departure - you could actually understand the announcements done through the PA system.

Kotoka must be one of the funniest airports I've ever visited. As soon as I arrived I had the feeling that I arrived to a developing country. First I had to walk from the airplane to the airport under light rain. Waiting for the luggage was another joke as it took a hell of a long time and there was also this guy with a chalk marking all the luggage that were moving on the carpet (no idea why). Eventually I went to customs (I had nothing to declare) yet my luggage was searched 3 times. It was actually the first time that my luggage got searched in front of me let alone 3 times by 3 different people. I discovered later that the customs people were doing this in order to get money. Oh and all through the way there were staff asking for money. I specially remember that guy who asked me "What did you get for your nice friends in Africa?". Now when departing I was amazed to see that the gate looked exactly like my class when I was 11 or 12 I guess: crowded all people facing the same direction and no A/C. Bottom line be prepared for a sub-standard airport and to give some "gifts" to your "friends" whenever you're arriving or leaving this country.

I have been using Kotoka International Airport for the past three years and very time I travel I fear the worst. The airport has only two departure lounges where passengers seat like they are in school bus all facing in front. On Fridays and Saturdays when there are several flights departing almost at the same time the departure lounges are full to capacity. The situation is worse when flights are delayed and it is normal to find more 500+ passengers in a lounge meant for not more than 200 people. Air-conditioning in the lounges does not work well and the TVs make so much noise that it is impossible to hear the announcements. The Duty Free shops are extortion points selling items for prices that are way above the normal price. Indeed there are renovations going on at the airport but the benefits are yet to be seen. A couple of years back customs officers used to connive with “helpers” (trolley pushers) and armed robbers and several passengers arriving in Accra had their items stolen. The Government moved in and cleared the airport of “helpers”. These people are back again. In addition there are just too many people asking for payments for the services that they have not rendered.

I have been at Accra Kotoka International several times during the last couple of years. You definitely get the feeling of being in a third world country from the moment you arrive. But the facilities at the airport has improved the last years. It is smart to be met by someone at the aiport especially if you travel alone and it's your first time in Ghana. Be sure to check in at least 3 hours before your flight departs.

My seventeen year old daughter was returning to us alone to London. Despite having stamped UK visa and both Ghanaian and British passports and being a minor an immigration officer bullied and harassed her on a late night flight (she was last in queue) while she was also feeling feverish. He extorted £100 off her claiming she was the sister of the person in the passport and pocketed the money.