Kathmandu Airport

I have always found KTM airport to be efficient well-run & architecturally impressive. Check-in is on the ground floor after passing security (Check-in is much faster & friendlier than say HKG or BKK) then customs and passport check (which are a breeze) plus a swanky well stocked business lounge which may be used by Qatar Thai & Austrian business class passengers (though not Gulf or Jet Airways) with free wi-fi and free domestic telephone calls. Sure the airport is a little dated.

Ghastly airport horrid dirty cramped conditions with simply abominable lavatories. When you arrive for the first time on an international flight it's very confusing with poor signage you exit the immigration hall almost in the same place you enter but you'd only know that by guessing. Once you've checked in you can't go anywhere but the dingy departures 'lounge'. The security is slow and the troops miserable there's no guidance on procedure and for example you have to have a luggage tab stamped by the screeners. If you don't have one they don't tell you then you get to the gate and are turned back by further security who check for the stamp on hand baggage! As an important city they really should get to grips with the facilities and the impression it makes on entering India.

Considering that this calls itself an International airport it is really poor it looks as if no money has been spent on facilities for many years. The worst problem though was the toilets which are dreadful very dirty water all over the floor and lots of people standing around doing nothing about it. I did make a complaint but doubt if anyone really cares.

Domestic terminal is basically a hanger with a few facilities. Check in is chaotic with baggage check somewhat erratic. There is a secondary body search before going through to the departure area although if you are foreign the security staff often seem more interested in finding out about your marital status than checking for knives etc. Buses for boarding the aircraft are outdated and rickety would be on the scrapheap in most countries.

If you're a nervous flyer don't look out the windows on landing as you'll see dogs chickens & sometimes people wandering across the tarmac. Even though the planes park a very short walk from the terminal you are bused which takes 10 times longer than if they just made people walk the short distance! The immigration people are the friendliest I've come across. The arrivals baggage area is a bit chaotic with bags strewn everywhere. The touts outside can be pretty annoying too. The domestic side is much smaller you're frisked about 4 times between entering the terminal & getting on the plane. I had no trouble with my camera & was even taking pics on the runway while queuing to board. On entering the terminal you're luggage HAS to get a security sticker on it otherwise it won't be accepted at check in & you'll have to go out & come back in again. The departure lounge is large but unfortunately smells like a public toilet.

I travelled through KTM in Sept/Oct on Gulf Air. Considering it is basically a third world country the security is good - searched on entering the terminal again on proceeding to the lounge and a final frisk at the foot of the aircraft steps. One point to mention security don't like camera batteries for some reason. Ordinary AA size were overlooked but a small camera 123 size was confiscated as forbidden. Of course it is a bit chaotic but just go with the flow and you'll be fine. The domestic terminal is complete chaos. My luggage was "lost " in the x ray machine for about five minutes despite a constant flow of other bags that went in after mine . I went through the security three times in as many days and not once did they find the swiss army style tool I had in my hand luggage. It was only at international security that it was spotted straight away and confiscated ( I had forgotten it was there - very embarrassed). Overall considering where it is the airport does a good job and I was impressed.

The airport is undergoing some fairly substantial (in relative terms anyway) redevelopment which has made the departure areas larger and more pleasant. The same old gripes about catering and toilet facilities exist but at least there are plenty of seats and room to walk about. The old frankly ridiculous final departure lounge is being replaced by a larger one which will lack the stuff of travellers tales but will certainly be less packed. Depending on where your plane is parked you may still walk across the tarmac. However the airport has acquired two big shiny transit buses normally seen at much larger and richer airports. And having bought them they are determined to use them. Thus a 1 minute walk may well be replaced by a 10 minute loading of the bus followed by a 20 second bus ride to the plane! In arrivals the system for buying on arrivals visas seems to change every week. No alternative but to go with the flow. But the area is as with departures larger than a few years ago. The baggage reclaim features many more carousels than can ever be needed with current flight schedules. Most of the time bags tend to come pleasantly quickly. The touts outside are still there. But a redesigned exit and police presence means that they are kept well back and it is possible to get well out of the airport before being approached.

Went to Katmandhu about 10 yrs ago - the airport was pretty basic - walking directly across the tarmac was a quaint touch - far too many touts at the exit for my liking.