Srinagar Airport is quite an experience, but then so is the whole of Kashmir for Europeans
travelling there. The airport is currently in the process of being rebuilt, so arrivals are
processed in what can only be described as a shed. Departures use the half-finished terminal, where
it is impossible to hear announcements due to the deafening construction noise. There is dust and
noise everywhere, although it looks as if it might be quite nice when it's finished! Be prepared to
be repeatedly screened, monitored, searched and grilled every couple of steps along the way by a
mixture of airport staff, troops and military police and don't expect them to be polite or friendly
- they are not.
On the understanding that Srinagar being the capital of Indian-
administered Kashmir is at the centre of one of longest running
conflicts in the world, then one should expect a particularly unique
experience regarding airport security. Srinagar airport in this respect
does not disappoint. On arrival (on Jet Airways from Delhi) one is
immediately struck by the fact that this is a military airfield
masquerading as a civilian airport. MiG fighters and helicopter gunships
abound at the far end of the airfield and all buildings are camoflauge
painted. The odd civilian Boening 737 looks incongruous. For arriving
foreigners you are accosted by a security official (fairly politely it
must be said) to fill in a long registration document. He then
accompanies you out of the arrival and baggage collection hall on a dirt
track to the carpark to ensure you are being met by whoever you had
claimed you were on the form. Only then can you be on your way. If you
are not being met I am not sure what your fate would be. Departure
though is an object lesson in airport security. The first hurdle is a
kilometer or so before the airport terminal where you are stopped at a
roadblock and put your luggage through an x-ray machine. Entering the
airport (and only passengers are allowed, not guests or friends) you
again put bags through another x-ray sceeening. Then you are allowed to
go to check in after which you must as a foreigner fill out another
lengthy departure registration form for the police. No hand luggage
whatsoever is allowed on Delhi bound flights so all you can carry is
what you can fit in your pockets (therefore travel with a multipocket
vest or similar to maximise carry on potential). Hand carried clear
plastic water bottles do suprisingly seem OK though to carry on. The
waiting area after check in is basic but OK as long as you don't mind
being stared at suspiciously by numerous armed army and poice men.
Then there is another long queue for a more detailed security check
which involves turning out all pockets and being individually scanned.
Finally you are through to the actual departure area but this is not the
end. After being released to go out, on foot to your waiting Boeing you
again go through another security check; all pockets and a patdown,
before eventually you board the plane. Great views of the Himalayas to
the north on the flight out but since cameras are not allowed on board
the memories stay in your mind and not on film.
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